Chefs and Restaurants

Tony Incontro Treats His Charcuterie Like His Children

Tony Incontro’s infatuation with salumi started around age eight, when he’d help his Calabrian grandfather clean casings and butcher pork shoulder in the garage for a holiday sausage dish. It’s no wonder he now serves as head salumist/sous chef of Del Dotto Winery in St. Helena, Calif., an area he considers “the Tuscany part of America.” There he makes more than 15 versions of dry-...