Heartwood Kitchen Pays Homage to Vancouver Island’s Bounty

Perched in the center of the small oceanside village of Ucluelet, on the western shore of Vancouver Island in British Columbia, is Heartwood Kitchen, where chef-forager Ian Riddick changes the menu changes daily, noting his current offerings on a roll of butcher paper hanging on the wall by the open kitchen.

A recurring favorite is his homage to the bounty of the region, a stew of Dungeness crab and...