A Tuna Tostada Hits Spicy, Smoky, and Tart Notes at Claro

T.J. Steele’s Brooklyn restaurant Claro is an homage to the cuisine of Oaxaca, where the chef lives part time, and his moles, memelas, and other Oaxacan dishes are worthy of exploration. On a recent visit, the standout was the yellowfin tuna tostada, a dish that nailed a range of textures—crunchy, creamy, juicy—and smoky, sweet, and spicy notes. His tostada starts with a crispy housemade tortilla that’s spread with...