Pastry Chef Charbel Abrache Is on the Cutting Edge of Baking with Alt Flours

Niko Triantafillou

Peer into the pastry case at Washington, D.C.’s Seylou Bakery and you’ll see some unexpected things. Flaky croissants with an airy open crumb made from 100 percent whole-wheat flour. Glistening canelés baked with millet—and zero wheat flour—that look like they were flown in straight from Bordeaux. Rich chocolate brownies and delicate pear muffins crafted with sorghum that would satisfy any comfort dessert fanatic (...