How Did Farm-to-Table Become Farm-to-Wasteable?

Who: Chefs

What: Our food waste

When: A decade ago

Where: Every restaurant

Why: ... Good question

During the endless candlelight glow of the “farm-to-table” movement, chefs and guests alike have been enamored by a nouveau riche food system that promises us social and culinary enlightenment. This new wave of food activism boomeranged back a resounding answer to “The Why:” cultivated-harvested-artisanally-locavore-passionately-sustainable-fucking-delicious food! The rock stars were the ruggedly charming overalled farmers (or, frankly, anybody who could weave “heirloom,” “artisanal...