Add Crunch and Brightness to Winter Menus with Brassicas

“Is there bacon in here?” my “vegetarian” dining companion asked as we dug our knives and forks into the creamy, crunchy, charred cabbage resting in a pool of mayo-infused egg yolk sauce at Denver’s Sap Sua. The potential for pork didn’t stop him. But that meaty flavor really came from a healthy dose of fish sauce and anchovy breadcrumbs scattered on top of the dish featured in a...