Food

Celery Shines at Healdsburg's Shed

We all love celery’s role as the back-up singer in just about every soup, sauce or broth. But at the Shed in Healdsburg, Calif., Perry Hoffman puts the stalk front and center in his chilled celery soup. Garnished with croutons and fennel pollen cream, the soup is light and creamy, highlighting the delicate flavor of the celery. Here, one of the kitchen’s most underrated ingredients is the star.