This Vegan Nigiri Was Born Out of Collaboration at Houston’s Oheya

Sometime between the Texas wagyu maki and snow crab with corn nage, crab butter, and black pepper, the team at Oheya in Houston slipped an extra, off-menu nigiri—and an optical illusion of sorts—into my omakase. Bright red flesh hugged a mound of sushi rice, but rather than a slice of raw, precious tuna, cooks had compressed Roma tomato quarters to top pieces of vegan nigiri. 

The...