Chinese Butchery Reboots Chef Jonathan Tam's Creative Process

Sean Kenniff

Jonathan Tam is best known for his vegetable cookery, a creative style he developed while cooking at two of the world’s most influential restaurants. He was the head chef at Relæ in Copenhagen, a position he had held for four years, and cooked at Noma before that. 

Now, at his Copenhagen restaurant Jatak, Tam practices whole-animal butchery for Chinese barbecue and...