Food

This Salt-Baked Trout Was Inspired by Beggar’s Chicken

Michael Harlan Turkell
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If a beige pile of lightly toasted salt doesn’t sound seafaring to you, then you must not know about salt-baked fish—it’s what’s on the inside that counts. Crusting a whole fish in a mixture of salt, egg whites, herbs, and spices has long been a favorite method of shoresmen and chefs. The flesh stays impressively moist and becomes perfumed by the briny, aromatic shell—consider it a Luddite’s version of sous vide. While the...