Truffles and Caviar Take Tater Tots Beyond the Cafeteria

Liz Grossman

You never forget your first greasy bites of tater tots in middle school. Luckily, more grown-up versions of tots are showing up on menus sans the ketchup and cafeteria. At Elske in Chicago, David Posey offers a sunchoke and potato cluster with truffles as a vegetarian substitute for a duck liver tart on the tasting menu. The sunchokes and potatoes are pressed, fried and topped with a caramelized onion aïoli...