The Wisconsin Fish Fry Gets a Modern Makeover at Madison's The Harvey House

Liz Grossman

A lot stays with you after a visit to a Wisconsin supper club. Sometimes it’s the sweet-boozy bite of your first sip of a brandy Old Fashioned; other times it’s the crunchy, snack-y mix of vegetables, cheese, and crackers that comprise the welcoming relish tray. It can also be the retro décor—from wood-paneled walls to patterned carpet and random taxidermy. 

But when Joe and Shaina Papach started...