Oscar Diaz Crossed the Country to Find Himself as a Chef

For Oscar Diaz, each platter of pimento cheese tostones and each oyster dressed with salsa macha is more than a tasty bite from his kitchen. It’s a place he’s staked out for himself, between the push-pull of customer expectations and the food in his heart and imagination. Rather than try and fit into a stranger’s vision of what a Mexican or Southerner should look like and cook, he focuses on expressing his...