The Chefs at L.A.'s Horses Found Big Success with a Low-Cost Build-Out

When Horses opened in fall 2021, Los Angeles was shaking off cases of the COVID-19 Delta variant. Though no one was under any illusions that the city—or the world—was reaching the end of the pandemic, it was an optimistic time.

“I think without COVID we wouldn’t have had the opportunity to get the space we did. We had a lot of people who were ready to go out to eat again...