Chefs and Restaurants

When It Comes to Pasta, Please Just Give Me All the Yolks

Liz Grossman

Growing up with six siblings in the ’80s, prepackaged carbs flowed from over-sized bowls on all corners of our dinner table. Golden piles of glistening Rice-A-Roni, jagged peaks of Hungry Jack mashed potatoes, and the retro food that left its cartoon-y logo forever locked into my brain: No Yolks noodles. Misguided experts said the yolk-free, cholesterol-free, low-fat, low-sodium enriched egg white pasta was healthier, and my physician father swore by the claims, even though he’d douse...