Chicken Gizzards Help Tell the Story of a People at Chicago’s Virtue

At Virtue, the newish Southern restaurant in Chicago, Chef/Owner Erick Williams' food is his side of a conversation with each diner. The topic on the table: the evolution of Southern cuisine during the Great Migration of the early 20th century, when millions of African-Americans left the rural South for the jobs and other opportunities in the industrial Northeast and Midwest. If you’re lucky, the discussion starts with a plate of...