We Bite into a Funky, Fermented Toast at D.C.’s Ellē

Even before Ellē opened in Washington, D.C., executive chef Brad Deboy and his team were deep into experimentations with fermentation. Looking to enjoy a snack during the R&D period, they made toast, slathered it with yogurt, topped the crunchy bread with grilled kimchi, and splashed on XO sauce. The unexpected combo was an epiphanic success, becoming the first dish they created for the menu.

“It’s...