Bycatch and Invasive Species are the Heart of the Mission and the Menu at Erizo

For Jacob Harth and Nick Van Eck of Erizo in Portland, Ore., prepping for the night’s 20-course tasting menu means slicing salt-cured lingcod into translucent panes to wrap around mandarin segments, chopping dehydrated geoducks and cockles for XO sauce, and excising small, pink adductor muscles from fist-sized butter clams, all brought in from the Oregon coast.

Despite the fact that Portland is only a 90-minute drive from...