How SPQR's Matthew Accarrino Farms His Own Caviar

Kate Bernot

Once synonymous with the roe of wild sturgeon exclusively from the Caspian and Black seas, caviar can come from around the world, from Iran to Italy and Uruguay. When Matthew Accarrino of San Francisco’s SPQR realized that most of the country’s white sturgeon caviar was coming from his own backyard in Northern California, he began to ask if caviar could be not just a luxury ingredient, but a local and...