Food

At Oro by Nixta, Masa Gets Molded into All Shapes and Sizes

Liz Grossman

When Kate and Gustavo Romero opened Minneapolis’ Oro by Nixta in 2023, they knew they’d devote a portion of the menu to sopes, tamales, tetelas, and all the fried masa dishes Gustavo grew up eating in Mexico. “When you went to the mercado, it was quick food,” he says. “They’d have somebody making fresh masa, stuffing it, and creating different shapes.” The restaurant nixtamalizes native and Mexican heirloom corn in-house, and seasonally varies...