These Chefs Make Cooking For Dietary Restrictions the Main Event

For chefs who cook entrées with dietary restrictions in mind, the goal is to create a dish that feels complete in its own right, and to dispel the notion that it’s a subpar substitution for the real thing. “The biggest compliment a restricted dish can get is that it’s not missing anything,” says Matt Aita, culinary director of Little Beet Table, a gluten-free restaurant in New York City. Kelsey...