These Chefs Take a Fin-to-Tail Approach to Whole Fish Cookery

Caroline Hatchett

Butchering fish is what led Jeff McInnis to cooking. He grew up on the Florida panhandle in Niceville, a small bayside town known for its mullet fishing. As a teen, he scraped barnacles off boats and filleted fish for charter boat patrons, taking scraps and bones to set crab traps. 

When work on the docks dried up in the winter, McInnis moved into the dish pit of a local seafood...