Why Simple Dishes are What We Want to Eat

James Beard once said, “I don’t like gourmet cooking or ‘this’ cooking or ‘that’ cooking. I like good cooking.”

God bless the man, because isn’t that how we all feel? Yes, we want over-the-top dining experiences. We want to be inspired, challenged, wowed. But the rest of the time—most of the time—we simply want good food. Real food. Food that is familiar, satisfying. Food that has a soul.

I’m reminded...