Jihee Kim Reaps the Benefits of a Takeout-Only Model at L.A.’s Perilla

In the back of a small complex of Los Angeles’ oft-forgotten Victor Heights neighborhood, a green door marks the entrance of Perilla. Inside the 260-square-foot space, a deli case is stacked with boxes of banchan—small side dishes that accompany every Korean meal. Most of the time, you’ll find soft tofu with gochujang meat sauce, rolled omelet with seaweed at the center, garlic eggplant (...