Chefs and Restaurants

The Perfection of Kintsugi-Mended Plates

Caroline Hatchett

As a young cook, Christopher Massad interned at Tankuma Kitamise, a restaurant in Kyoto situated in a traditional Japanese home more than a century old. The owner, a septuagenarian at the time, seasonally rotated his collection of antique plateware and maintained a nearby storage unit exclusively for plates—stacks and stacks of them. Massad also recalls that the more expensive the menu a guest selected, the finer the plates. ...