Chefs to Watch 2019: Anthony Lombardo, SheWolf, Detroit

Amy Cavanaugh

Dining at SheWolf is to understand the past, present, and future of pasta. At his Detroit restaurant, Anthony Lombardo offers a range of Italian dishes, from focaccia with puttanesca to frutti di mare with ’nduja, but pasta is the heart of the menu. He begins with The Composition of Roman Pasta, a family tree delineating cacio e pepe as the grandfather of Roman pasta. Add guanciale and you have...