Chefs to Watch 2019: Dominic Piperno, Hearthside, Collingswood, N.J.

Liz Grossman

People lucky enough to grow up with an Italian nonna know the smells, sounds, and tastes that permeated the kitchen on a typical Sunday afternoon. But when Dominic Piperno thinks about his grandma whipping up spaghetti and meatballs, he also remembers how it felt. “She’d pick me up and put me in the pot on top of the tomatoes so I could squish them with my feet,” recalls Piperno, whose older brother usually got...